Friday, December 31, 2010
banks on Holiday
Friday, December 24, 2010
Christmas Comes Early for Surfers
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
still lack of action
Friday, December 10, 2010
flat again
Friday, December 3, 2010
Down for the Count
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Rain
Monday, November 15, 2010
Waves again
Monday, November 8, 2010
Flat Spell
Monday, November 1, 2010
Windy
Monday, October 25, 2010
Banks still around
Report - 3m SW swell, Light N winds (before seabreeze).
Monday, October 18, 2010
banks come and go and come again
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Banks
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Best Wedge This Year?
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
post points afterglow
Saturday, September 11, 2010
How many is a crowd
Report - 4m West Swell. N - WNW winds. High tide 10.25am
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Wild South East
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Wedge is On again
Report - 3.5m SW swell. Light winds early, strong SW later. 7.25am low tide
Friday, August 27, 2010
Snap Frozen
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Big swells then nothing
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
South Arm Doldrums
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Winter banks?
Monday, July 26, 2010
Late points
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Out of Action
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Report -2m SW swell. Westerly winds. High tide 11.10am.
Monday, July 12, 2010
Flat
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Wedge is On.
Report - 4m SW swell. Moderate Nor west wind all day. 3.17 High tide.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Back in the rubber
report - 3.5 m SW swell, early light northerly winds, turning stronger WSW. Low 8.12 am.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Leaving
Report - 2.5 - 3m SW swell. Northerly winds all day.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
It never happened
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Boneyards
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Good Times For Fishing
Report - 1.5 W Swell. No wind. 12.20pm Low tide.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Kind of Slow, Kind of cold.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
East Coast On Fire
Report - 2m SW swell. Light NW winds all day. High tide 10.30am. Afternoon low almost non existant.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Evening Leftovers
Report - 2- 3m SW (mostly west) swell. Moderate Westerlies.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Sunset
Report - 4.5 m SW swell decreasing during the day. Fairly strong NW winds. High tide 4.40pm
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Snake Doctor

Report - Small 1 ft max. Good NW winds. High Tide 3.30pm.
Monday, May 3, 2010
3 out 4

Report - 2 - 3ft in protected areas, 4 - 5 on the open beaches.Light NW winds, High Tide 2.15pm
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Swell continues

Report - 5m Sw swell, Light - moderate N - NW winds. High tide 12.20pm.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Maybe the King has lost perspective?

Report - windy as fuck. V strong 40 - 50 knot Westerlies, 7m westerly swell. Low tide 13.10 (but not that low)
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Commercialism of Surfing part 3. What's Good about it?
Report - small 1 - 1.5 ft on open beaches. NW offshore winds. Low Tide 8.50 am
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Report - Smallish 1 - 2ft waves on open beaches. Very light offshore NW winds. High Tide
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Decreasing Swell
Report - Light N winds, 2.5 - 3m SW swell, 12pm high tide.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Wasted Swell?

Report - 3.5m SW swell. 20 - 30knot SW winds
Friday, April 9, 2010
Surfing. Lifestyle Choice or Commercial Venture? Intro
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Goin Off at The Wedge
For the lucky few hundred that were able to organise time off this morning the swell reached that height where its too big for most beachies, too small for the points, but absolutely spot on for The Wedge. There were plenty of barrels early on before the wind hit.
The Wedge is a strange set up. It sits on an open beach, yet in the lee of an island. When swells get big enough they wrap around either side of the island before joining up again and forming (here comes an overused surf term) a series of A frame peaks along the beach in the protected side of the island. Hence the name Wedge.
If the island were of a different shape eg circular, this probably wouldn't work so well. However it is elongated, with the pointy end featuring tall cliffs facing the open sea, then forming an almost triangle and gently sloping towards the mainland with the 3rd side of the triangle, facing directly towards the best surf peaks. The tall cliffs tend to break up the swell quite evenly and channel it along either side of the island, before it comes around and meets up again, just offshore of the sand.
Largely because its protected from the worst of the swells by the island, the beach at this point, rather than being the normal concave shape (towards the ocean), actually turns the other way, which also helps left handers peel for a lot longer along the beach after they have rounded the island. While right handers tend to form a large, hollow and very fast barrel. It really is the perfect set up for days like today, with the early offshore breeze.
Of course being the only wave that breaks under these conditions it gets pretty crowded. Fortunately there are a number of banks formed, and the crowd can spread out along the beach, with different sized waves for everyone.
Like the name suggests, at the best of the Aframes you need to be quick to your feet, as the wave Wedges up very quickly and you will get left behind wondering might have been and floundering around in the whitewash.
Hope some others managed to enjoy it this morning as well.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Easter Bliss
Report - 2 -3 ft waves, light offshore breeze. Low tide 7.30am
With the rising tide and continuing light offshore wind this morning the later you left it the better the waves.
I surfed from about 9.30 to 11.30 and as the tide came in the waves certainly held up better, with a few gems like the one pictured if you were prepared to wait for them.
Its Easter Sunday and the crowds are out in force on this warm, calm sunny holiday. They aren't just in the surf, there are yachts, swimmers, fishermen, jet skiers and walkers all out from town and enjoying the peninsular today.
After the last few days when winter has been warning of its approach its nice to have a relapse back into summer. Should make up for day light saving ending as well.
The summer just gone, would have to be one of the warmest and calmest that I have experienced down here. Of course its no good for the rainwater tank, but who cares when the days are so nice.
Enjoy Easter.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Bare Earth

Thursday, March 25, 2010
Close Out

Monday, March 22, 2010
Cooling Down

NW - SW winds most of the weekend. Tides 1.30/2.30 pm.
Swell SW at around 3.5m
The swell didnt actually hit until around luch time on Saturday, by which time the wind was getting into it and the tide was on the way out.
With early rain on Sunday morning, it was a case of get out in it, or if you are lucky just after the rain, but before the winds mess things up. The picture was taken on Sunday, about 1/2 hour before the wind chopped everything up.
Today there is still a fair bit of swell at the open locations, however its just closing out all along the beach.
Its a bit hard to get out of the wind, but some spots are protected from the westerlies. As normal the best spot in todays conditions is full of lid riders. I have been checking it out most days recently, and the bank that was there a month or so ago, seems to have been wiped out. Lots of closeouts now, where as before the wave was holding up quite nicley.
The air temp. has really cooled down in the last few days and people will be starting to think about getting new wetsuits, or pulling out the good winter one. Its almost time for the extra rubber accessories like booties and gloves.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Demise of Interesting content in Surf Media

Thursday, March 18, 2010
Disater of a day

Did the long walk back. Get to the car, no keys. Damn.
walk back up the beach, keys are all the way up the end. Some relief at least.
Head for home. Radar trap has gone. Doing about 70kmh in what used to be an 80 zone, now 60 pass a tree with the speed camera set up in a new location. Damn. Twice in one day.
Thats an expensive surf, that wasnt even that good.
You win some, you lose some.
Yesterday was a winner. Today was a loser.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Flat

Report Wed - almost no swell today. Certainly its so small as to be unrideable. No wind in the morning, light sea breeze for the afternoon.
Thursday Update - unpredicted and unexpected swell came in overnight/morning. Sets 2 - 3 ft. Morning winds light NE - calm. High Tide 10.05 am.
Wed - No surf pictures today, so there is one of the view from the front porch instead.
Such a calm day. There's still plenty of warmth in the sun and the water. After an hour so walking the harbourside beach with dogs in tow, I have put the day of rest to good use. Spent the day doing tax, and calculating finances, which got me thinking.
How long can this lifestyle be maintained?
Right now seems like a great time to enjoy life. My old man spent his whole life working day in day out, week by week, year by year to support his family looking forward to retirement. Then as the age of 65 approached and everyone had left home, he wondered what he was going to do to pass the time each day.
6 years on at 71 he's still working. Obviously he enjoys it, but at some stage between being a teenager and a pensioner he forgot how to relax and enjoy life. Of course the family appreciates it, but it makes me think what are we all working so hard for?
If no one worked, then society wouldn't function. So its necessary for someone to do it.
Up until this year, well I was one of those someones, but its an experience that on reflection is not as rewarding as it should have been. Spent so many years creating new blocks of land for some other guy to make money on. So many times the development was not needed, ugly, a blight on the landscape and caused the destruction of what used to be a nice piece of bushland.
So for now its surfing most days, some marketing and just hanging around on the others.
As far as lifestyle choices, coastal living for me is the optimum. Having lived in large cities, suburbs, small cities and rural areas, to be by the beach certainly stands out as the pick of the crop.
Thursday Update - Every now and again all the right factors come together at your local surf spot. The ones that turn it from being just an average wave to the kind that people publish photos of on wannasurf.com or surfingatlas.com
This morning was one of those times.
One of the advantages of flexible work hours is the ability to take time off at moments that best suit yourself.
Unfortunately this particular blogger left his camera at home, so no photos. He didn't forget his surfboard though.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Watersport Weekend
Thursday, March 11, 2010
frustration
This particular surfer spent all morning chasing waves in out of the way uncrowded locations only to find that the swell from the previous day had dropped too much and whilst potential was there, nowhere was really happening. Just too small. Lots of miles covered, no waves surfed.
Back closer to home and the swell is at that annoying size where its too big for the beachies and too small for the points.
All adds up to frustration
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Small Points
Report - Strong SW winds brought in enough swell for small waves at the points. the video shows a fairly typical wave for today. Low tide was at 12.15pm so if you weren't in at that time, you would have missed the best of it.
Its great being a small town location. even on fairly crowded days, things remain pretty friendly and the waves get shared around. If only someone would tell the young grommets to let some other people have a go.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Gale force

Expecting a large increase in swell overnight, hopefully the point breaks will be working for low tide tomorrow morning.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Rain
wind has shifted to the east bringing rain and onshore winds. Swell has dropped right off to only 1 ft. Only the desperate are out today.
It doesnt rain here much, being situated in a rainshadow from the mountains. So really the rain is a good thing. It started early morning and has continued steady ever since.
What else can you say, good for watching DVD's
Been reading a post/thread on the swellnett forum.
http://swellnet.com.au/forums/1/topics/65
All I can say is thank god the pro's don't ever come here. Sure on its day the beach breaks can be awesome, and for 5 or 6 times a year that they work the points are world class barrel rides, but its not really enough to get those guys here.
You couldn't whip in at the points anyway, no room for the jetski.
These guys are obnoxious. Really no thought for other peoples enjoyment. So intrusive to an otherwise peaceful day/surf at your local.
Stay away
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Clean Up Australia Day
A warm day, up to the high 20's
Its clean Up Australia and me and the missus did our bit at the local clean up along the neck.
But maybe due to lack of awareness, the turnout was quite low and we only achieved a fraction of what should have been done.
regardless of that, the amount of rubbish along the side of the road is disgraceful. This is only 1 3km we are dealing with.
Who is doing this?
Stop it.
Its no great hassle to keep your empty bottles in the car until you get home. Everything looks so much nicer when its not covered in rubbish.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Day off
Big SLSC carnival on up the road.
day off today, After surfing all week it wasnt so bad to avoid the weekend crowds and have a day off. Like all small towns close to a city, the influx of weekend warriors begins early.
After early rain the skies cleared and with no breeze until late, the water was nice enough for a swim at the inshore beach. Its still warm this time of year. Gotta make the most of it.
the dogs love it as much as I do, impossible to keep them out of the water.
