Report - windy as fuck. V strong 40 - 50 knot Westerlies, 7m westerly swell. Low tide 13.10 (but not that low)
With a 7m swell if you didn't live down here you would think that the waves would be enormous, but no the westerly swell just goes right on by.
Still some sets are getting in and Rebounds (pictured) is getting the odd 3 ft set.
Rebounds takes its name from waves bouncing off the rocky point and rebounding almost perpendicular to the main swell lines. If you can time it right you can take off on a very nicely formed steep peak. The rebounding wave really gives you some good speed, but you have to get to your feet very quickly. The larger waves have a tendency to close out at low tide, but there are always some rippers coming through.
The spot also has the advantage of being protected from any wind with west in it.
Overall its a fun wave.
Through being a member of Tracks online forums etc, I receive a weekly online mag update called "The Rouge Bugle", maybe I am old and out of touch, but I have no idea what that name refers to.
But that's not the point I want to make. In the last edition there is a short interview with Kelly Slater on his first session at Shipsterns. In it he describes how he had to change boards for whatever reason.
He goes onto say how much hassle it was to change and "my board was under all the other boards, and it doesn’t have any fins wax or logos or anything".
I can understand you might be a bit worried about control without fins or wax, but how can anyone possibly surf without logos?
Which begs the question, if a pro surfs without being in front of a camera, did he really surf at all?
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