Goin Off at The Wedge

Report - 4 - 5 ft. early light northerly breezes, turning strong NE. Low tide 9.00 am. No photos, unfortunately this morning this surfer forgot his camera, didnt even remember the mobile phone to take at least a grainy photo with.

For the lucky few hundred that were able to organise time off this morning the swell reached that height where its too big for most beachies, too small for the points, but absolutely spot on for The Wedge. There were plenty of barrels early on before the wind hit.

The Wedge is a strange set up. It sits on an open beach, yet in the lee of an island. When swells get big enough they wrap around either side of the island before joining up again and forming (here comes an overused surf term) a series of A frame peaks along the beach in the protected side of the island. Hence the name Wedge.

If the island were of a different shape eg circular, this probably wouldn't work so well. However it is elongated, with the pointy end featuring tall cliffs facing the open sea, then forming an almost triangle and gently sloping towards the mainland with the 3rd side of the triangle, facing directly towards the best surf peaks. The tall cliffs tend to break up the swell quite evenly and channel it along either side of the island, before it comes around and meets up again, just offshore of the sand.

Largely because its protected from the worst of the swells by the island, the beach at this point, rather than being the normal concave shape (towards the ocean), actually turns the other way, which also helps left handers peel for a lot longer along the beach after they have rounded the island. While right handers tend to form a large, hollow and very fast barrel. It really is the perfect set up for days like today, with the early offshore breeze.

Of course being the only wave that breaks under these conditions it gets pretty crowded. Fortunately there are a number of banks formed, and the crowd can spread out along the beach, with different sized waves for everyone.

Like the name suggests, at the best of the Aframes you need to be quick to your feet, as the wave Wedges up very quickly and you will get left behind wondering might have been and floundering around in the whitewash.

Hope some others managed to enjoy it this morning as well.