Wasted Swell?

Report - 3.5m SW swell. 20 - 30knot SW winds

Low Tide 12.30pm

Don't be fooled by the photo this was the only wave that didn't close in 20 minutes of watching.

I have heard a few people talk about wasted swell in the past couple of days. Its really only wasted if you plan to surf locally. If however you were prepared to drive for an hour or more, then I know of a few places on the east coast that would be pumping and offshore in these conditions.

So what's so wrong with the commercialism and corporatisation of surfing?

In its roots (lets say once us white guys got into it, not way back when it was strictly an Hawaiin pastime), surfing was an adventure, sharing some fun with mates, getting some nice waves, blowing off some steam and generally enjoying yourself.

The waves weren't crowded, you mostly surfed the local and the only fights that broke out were against the cops or the clubbies.

How has this changed?

- Commercialism has taken away this innocence.

The surfing image has been taken up, branded with a logo and mass marketed to the world. If you were a surfer back in the old days, then perhaps you miss this innocence.

But can the blame be put totally on the companies and their marketing machines. All they have done is taken a perception that existed in people's minds and run with it. The work was already half done before they even got going.

Given time the sport of surfing would have grown all by itself. Surf industry companies have definitely accelerated the process through marketing and expansion into new markets and territories.

- Surfing has lost its soul.

What that soul may have been, one can only theorise. For me its the feeling of being part of nature, harnessing the power of the ocean for my enjoyment.

For others it might be something else. It still exists in many of us, but when watching a hotly contested heat or seeing 5 semi pros out flashing skateboard moves for the camera after jumping off the back of a jet ski, the soul seems to be missing.

- Everything is about the Brand.

As long as the products keep selling, the pros are going to spend the rest of their lives walking around covered in labels. Generally they will be forbidden from wearing more than the 1 label of their major sponsor, as they make every piece of clothing that can be thought of and stick a label on it.

- lack of responsibility

theres a bunch of guys and some girls who never have to work anymore. This isn't just surfing, its any highly paid professional sport. Exemplified at this stage in Australia by Rugby League players. The antics of these guys regularly make the headlines so keep a look out in your daily newspaper.

They aren't learning the real value of the money earnt. everything comes way too easily. With an entourage of yes men around them, they lose respect for others. This is best demonstrated by dropping in on just about anyone who they do not know in a line up.

- Environmental degradation

Most products used in surfing are plastics and chemical based. Starting from the bottom

the board you are riding, consists of fibreglass, resin, or epoxy,

your boardshorts are nylon (synthetic polymers)

your rashvest is lycra (polyurethane-polyurea copolymer)

your wetsuit is neoprene (most likely petroleum based)

If you want to know the actual chemistry then look it up on the web.

Then there's all the fossil fuels burnt driving or flying around looking for the best waves. I have driven over 300km's this past week, just to find the best surf. One day I didn't even go out. How many others are doing this each week? There's a PHD for someoone.

- dissillusionment

It doesn't take long for it to happen, the realisation is pretty quick on a paddle out into a crowded line up, that the old image of carefree times in the waves is almost a thing of the past. You really need to get off the beaten track by yourself or with only a few friends to experience that.

- every one wants to be the next world champ.

not strictly true, but there are enough people in the water hogging waves to make it a lot less enjoyable for others.

- crowds and all their associated problems

eg agro, accidents, injuries, no parking, missing good waves, break down of order and just the sheer number of people.

Doubtless other people will be able to think of more issues associated with the commercialism, but for me these are what I see as being the most prevalent.

Of course its not all bad. Next blog will be on the positive aspects of commercial involvement in surfing.