East Coast On Fire

Report - 2m SW swell. Light NW winds all day. High tide 10.30am. Afternoon low almost non existant.

Doesn't often happen, but today I would say I was too worn out to surf. Actually had other commitments, but wasn't too stressed.

Reason being the east coast between Orford and Swansea also doesn't happen too often, but on the rare occasion with a direct easterly swell it fires.

After waking well before dawn and doing the 2 hour drive, we arrived at the river mouth of Little Swanport just as the sun came up. Its a fairly well known spot amongst Tassie surfers, due to the long left hand barrels that peel down the sandbank at at the entrance to Great Oyster Bay. Already there was about 15 people out, but with regular 4 -5 ft sets there was enough to go around.

As the tide came in and the time went by, the smaller waves were lacking the same punch as the big ones, the crowd increased and it was time for breakfast.

After a bit of a drive to check some other spots we settled on the location pictured in the photo. Whilst it no great secret for those Tasmanian's in the know, I would be shot for giving the location away on a blog, so no names or directions.

Upon arrival at the car park, there were already 10 cars parked there, which with some simple maths equals about 20 already out in the water, thats pretty crowded given there really is a limited take off zone. Think paddling straight towards protruding, jagged boulders on a steep, growing 4 footer and the thought of not making the drop is, well best not thought about.

After the 1/2 hour trek in, having passed a few guys on there way back, the crowd situation was looking better.

Cresting the last rise with a view of the spot, its was great to see another 3 guys towelling down and putting on dry clothes, not wetsuits.

That left 5 in the water. By the time I was wetsuited up and ready for the water, only my friend (who I came with) and 1 other guy were in the water. A quick jump off the rocks, a chat to the other guy "yeah I'm about to go in too". No worries mate the next ones yours.

That left only 2 of us in the water for well over an hour. Some longish lulls but with almost perfect 4 footers rolling in from the east it was on and on and on.

Unbelievably others walked in for a check, but of the 10 that did only 2 others decided to paddle out. Don't know what the others had seen that was better, but it couldn't have been less crowded.

So for the final 1/2 hour there were 4 guys guys in the water, plenty of waves and 4 big smiles.